Ionian Islands
Corfu
Corfu for UK travellers: which resort to base in, the green-bus-or-car-hire question, real prices in pounds, and the Venetian old town versus the family beaches.
In short
Corfu at a glance
Corfu is the greenest of the Ionian islands โ millions of olive trees, a Venetian-built old town that's a UNESCO site, and the longest UK package-holiday history of any Greek island. The mistake is booking a resort blind: the north coast (Kassiopi, Acharavi, Sidari) is the family heartland, the west (Paleokastritsa, Glyfada, Agios Gordios) has the dramatic coves and cliffs, and Corfu Town is the one base where you don't need a car at all. Fly into Corfu (CFU), which sits 3km from town, pick one coast, and decide the hire-car question on day one.
Corfu is the greenest of the Ionian islands and the one with the longest hold on British holidaymakers โ generations of UK families have flown into CFU, and millions of olive trees, some of them five centuries old, cover the hills behind the resorts. What sets it apart from the Cyclades postcard is that its capital, Corfu Town, is a genuine Venetian city: a UNESCO old town of tall shuttered houses, two seafront fortresses and the arcaded Liston, built by the French to echo the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. The island has more variety than its package-holiday reputation suggests, which is exactly why the one mistake to avoid is booking a resort blind. The north coast around Kassiopi, Acharavi and Sidari is the family heartland of calm, shallow beaches; the west around Paleokastritsa is all turquoise coves, sea caves and cliff-top castles; and the south has the longest stretches of sand.
The question most UK visitors ask is whether they need a hire car, and for once the honest answer depends on where you stay. Base yourself in Corfu Town and you genuinely donโt: the green KTEL buses leave San Rocco Square for every major resort cheaply โ Paleokastritsa for โฌ3.50, Kassiopi or Sidari for about โฌ4 โ and the town itself is walkable, with the airport only 3km and a โฌ1.20 bus ride away. Base on the steep, winding west coast and a car earns its keep, both for the cliff roads and for the olive-grove hill villages such as Lakones that the buses donโt reach. Reckon on roughly ยฃ30โยฃ50 a day off-peak, far more in August if you leave it late, and book it weeks ahead. The week below assumes a Corfu Town base and the buses; add a car for the days you want the west-coast drama.
The route
A relaxed week that mixes the Venetian old town, the dramatic west coast and a north-coast beach base. Times are green-bus (KTEL) estimates from Corfu Town; hire a car only for the days you want the cliff roads and hill villages.
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Days 1โ2
Corfu Town
Base here first: the Old Fortress (about โฌ6), the Liston arcade and the Spianada square, and the maze of Venetian lanes in the Campiello. Everything is walkable, so don't hire a car yet โ the Blue Line 15 bus from the airport is โฌ1.20. Add the Achilleion Palace (โฌ7), the Austrian empress's villa, as a half-day trip 10km south.
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Day 3
Paleokastritsa & the west coast
The green KTEL bus runs from Corfu Town to Paleokastritsa for โฌ3.50 (about 45 minutes). Take the small-boat trip round the six coves and sea caves, then climb to Lakones or the Byzantine Angelokastro fortress for the cliff-top view. This is the most scenic single day on the island.
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Days 4โ5
The north coast
Move up to Kassiopi or Acharavi (KTEL from town about โฌ4) for the family beach base โ calmer, shallower swimming and a working harbour at Kassiopi. Day-trip to Sidari for the Canal d'Amour sandstone formations and the shallow water that suits young children.
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Days 6โ7
The south & the green interior
Drop down to Agios Gordios or Glyfada for the longest sandy beaches, or hire a car to reach the 500-year-old olive groves and hill villages inland that the buses don't serve. End back in Corfu Town for a final evening on the Liston, then the 10-minute hop to the airport.
Where to base yourself
Pick one or two bases rather than moving every night.
Corfu Town (Old Town / Garitsa)
ยฃยฃ mid-rangeThe best all-round base and the only one you can do car-free with ease: a UNESCO Venetian old town, the two fortresses, the Liston arcade and real restaurants rather than resort buffets, with the airport 10 minutes away. Better for a culture-plus-day-trips holiday than a pure beach week โ the town beaches are small, so you'll bus out to swim.
Best for: First-timers, culture, car-free trips, day-trips by bus
Kassiopi & the north coast
ยฃยฃ mid-rangeThe strongest family base: a pretty working harbour at Kassiopi, calmer and shallower swimming, and good value below the headline resorts. Acharavi and Roda nearby give you the long, flat, gently-shelving beaches that suit young children. Quieter than the package strips but you'll want a car or the KTEL bus to reach the west-coast sights.
Best for: Families, calm swimming, harbour-town feel
Paleokastritsa & the west coast
ยฃยฃ mid-rangeThe most scenic base: six turquoise coves, sea caves you reach by small boat, and the cliff-top Angelokastro above. Glyfada and Agios Gordios further south add proper sandy beaches. The drama comes at a price โ the roads are steep and winding, so this is the coast where a hire car earns its keep most.
Best for: Scenery, coves, boat trips, couples
Getting around Corfu
Corfu is bigger and hillier than people expect โ Corfu Town to the far north is about an hour, and the west-coast roads are steep and winding. The green KTEL buses run from San Rocco Square in Corfu Town to all the main resorts cheaply (Paleokastritsa โฌ3.50, Kassiopi or Sidari about โฌ4, Glyfada โฌ3), so if you base in town you can do a whole holiday car-free. The blue local buses cover the town and the near suburbs from around โฌ1.20. Hire a car (roughly ยฃ30โยฃ50 a day off-peak, much more in August if you book late) for the west-coast cliff roads, the olive-grove hill villages and the southern beaches the buses reach less often โ and book it weeks ahead, because walk-up summer prices spike.
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