Southern Transdanubia (Baranya County)
Pécs
Hungary's southern cultural city pairs an Ottoman mosque with a Roman necropolis; reach it from Budapest and give it a day or two, no more.
Best length
1-2 nights, as a Budapest add-on
Airport
None for UK flyers — arrive via Budapest (BUD), ~200km north
Budapest to centre
Direct train ~2h45-3h to Pécs station, then ~15 min walk uphill to Széchenyi tér
Best base
The Belváros (walled old town) around Széchenyi tér and Káptalan utca
In short
Pécs at a glance
Pécs is southern Hungary's cultural city and best treated as a one- or two-night add-on from Budapest rather than a standalone fly-in trip: there is no UK flight, so you arrive by train or car from the capital, then walk a compact centre built around Széchenyi Square, the converted Ottoman mosque on it, and the UNESCO-listed Roman tombs beneath the cathedral.
The short version
- There is no airport for UK travellers — you fly into Budapest, then take the direct train or drive ~2h30 south.
- Book a day for Pécs as the centrepiece of a Southern Transdanubia loop, not as a separate flight destination.
- The Mosque of Pasha Qasim on Széchenyi Square is the headline sight — the largest surviving Ottoman building in Hungary, now a working church.
- The Cella Septichora visitor centre and the painted Roman tombs are the UNESCO draw and the one ticket worth pre-booking in summer.
- Two nights is plenty for the centre plus the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter; pair a third with the Villány wine villages 30 minutes south.
Pécs is the cultural pick of southern Hungary, and its appeal is the unusual layering you don’t get in Budapest: an Ottoman mosque that became a Catholic church on the main square, painted Roman burial chambers under the cathedral, and the eosin-glazed Zsolnay ceramics the city invented. The mistake UK first-timers make is treating it as a destination they can fly to. There is no airport for you here — Pécs is a train ride south of Budapest, so it works as the centrepiece of a wider Hungary trip rather than a long weekend in its own right.
Plan it as one packed day plus a slower second: the mosque, the Cella Septichora necropolis and the cathedral cluster within a ten-minute walk, and the Zsolnay Quarter fills an afternoon a short stroll east. Two nights is comfortable, and a car earns its keep only if you push on to the Villány wine villages half an hour south. Below, the structured planning — how to arrive from Budapest, what to book, where to base yourself and a realistic budget in pounds — picks up from here.
Keep a first trip focused: book the big timed sights, then leave room for neighbourhoods and food.
Top things to do in Pécs
Cella Septichora and the Early Christian Necropolis
Pécs's UNESCO World Heritage draw is its Early Christian Necropolis: 4th-century painted burial chambers preserved beneath the cathedral square. You view them from glass walkways inside a modern visitor centre built over the excavation, the largest of which is the seven-apsed Cella Septichora. It is a quiet, atmospheric site; pre-book in July and August, when school groups arrive.
Mosque of Pasha Qasim (Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque)
The Mosque of Pasha Qasim is the largest surviving Ottoman structure in Hungary, sitting square on Pécs's main square, Széchenyi tér. Its green dome is topped, unusually, by both an Islamic crescent and a Christian cross. Inside, you can read the building's double life: the original mihrab and Ottoman arches survive alongside the Catholic church it became, layered together in a single domed room.
Where to stay first
The areas that make a first visit easier — not an exhaustive directory.
Belváros (the walled old town)
££ mid-rangeThe compact historic core around Széchenyi tér and Káptalan utca — the mosque, cathedral, necropolis and most cafés are within a five-minute walk. The obvious first-trip base because Pécs is small enough to do everything on foot from here.
Best for: First-timers, short stays, walking everything
Around Király utca
£ valueThe pedestrian shopping and café street running east off the main square, lined with Art Nouveau facades and the liveliest evening crowd. Good for dinner and a quieter sleep than the square itself, still walkable to every sight.
Best for: Food, evenings, value mid-range hotels
University quarter (Ifjúság útja)
£ valueSouth-west of the old town near the campus and the Mecsek foothills, greener and cheaper, with a student rhythm. A short bus or 20-minute walk in, better value but less atmospheric for a one-night stay.
Best for: Budget travellers, longer stays
Airport to city centre
| Option | Time | Cost | Book ahead? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Direct train Budapest-Déli/Kelenföld to Pécs | ~2h45-3h | about 4,800-6,500 Ft second class | Cheapest and easiest; runs roughly every 1-2 hours |
| Train via Dombóvár with a change | ~3h15 | similar fare | Useful if the direct times don't suit |
| Drive from Budapest Airport via the M6 | ~2h30 | fuel plus M6 motorway e-vignette (~5,500 Ft/10 days) | Best if you want the Villány wineries |
| Long-distance Volánbusz coach | ~3h30-4h | about 4,500 Ft | Slower than the train, occasionally cheaper |
When to go
Sweet spot: Late April to June and September are the sweet spot: 18-26°C, the Mediterranean-feeling squares and terraces are open, and the Villány vineyards 30 minutes south are at their best either side of the autumn harvest. Pécs is one of Hungary's warmest, sunniest cities, so the shoulder seasons are unusually kind here.
High summer is hot — Pécs regularly tops 30°C in July and August — but the old town has more shade and fewer crowds than Budapest. Winter is quiet and cold, with a small but pretty Advent market on Széchenyi tér; spring and early autumn give you the best weather and the wine-country light. The Zsolnay and university calendars mean September brings festivals and a student buzz back to the centre.
What it costs
There are no direct UK flights to Pécs, so the flight cost is the Budapest fare: UK returns to Budapest run about £29-£60 off-peak on Wizz Air or Ryanair booked ahead, £90-£180 in the school holidays or at short notice. Add roughly £20-£30 each way for the onward train to Pécs.
Daily budget per person
Pécs runs noticeably cheaper than Budapest for food and rooms — a main and a beer on Király utca costs well under what you would pay near Parliament. The one budget trap is the train: book the direct service and reserve a seat in summer rather than turning up for a peak Friday departure.
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